The sari

True to an old promise, we will discuss today the sari, the traditional garment used by millions of women in South Asia. We will review your history and traditional styles, but: "Readers who only want to know how to wear a sari, you can download directly to the end of the text, where a step-by-step." And the rest, let us to the point:

Concept. A sari is a colorful female attire prevailing in the Indian subcontinent. It consists of a long strip of fabric without stitching, ranging from four to nine meters in length and fits the body of the carrier according to different uses and styles. The most common way to wear a sari is wrapped around the waist women for one end, while the other edge passes over the shoulder, the stomach exposed.

Women usually get the subcontinent over the sari blouse called choli small or Ravika. The choli has short sleeves, low neck cut is presented to help women to withstand the harsh summer in southern Asia. The heat is such that in some places, like the region of Orissa , women's breasts are coated directly with the fabric of the sari. The cholis may not cover the back and are of varied thickness. They come equipped with a variety of reasons, such as mirrors, and ornate designs when compared to Western clothes. The sari is a garment common to all India.

Origin and history. The word 'sari' evolved from the Prakrit word (derived from Sanskrit) "sattika" mentioned in the early Jain and Buddhist literature.

India's textile history traces the origins of the sari in the Indus Valley Civilization, which flourished no less than between 2,800 and 1,800 BC in the western part of the continent, part of the territory currently occupied by Pakistan. The first known representation of the sari is a statue of a priestess of the Indus Valley, dressed in a cloth.

Old Tamil poems like Kadambari Silappadhikaram or describe sexy women dressed in saris. In Indian classical tradition and under the treaty Natya Shastra (which describes the classical dance and costumes), the navel of the Supreme Being is considered the source of life and creativity, and so the sari must leave the stomach bare.

Some historians believe that the dhoti dress, a kind of shell pants garment and the oldest India, is the forerunner of the sari. Although today is only a guy thing, until the fourteenth century was worn by both sexes equally.

Still preserved sculptures of the Gandhara school, Mathura and Gupta (I-VI centuries AD) that show goddesses and dancers showing what appears to be a dhoti in wide release, covering the legs widely and then floats to make a long and decorative fold ahead of them. The bra is not visible.

Other sources maintain that everyday clothes consisted of a dhoti, combined a chest strap and a film that could be used to cover the upper body or head. It still exists in Kerala (South India) a similar pledge.

What is generally accepted, without exception, is that related to the sari costumes, shawls and veils have been worn by Indian women in its current form for hundreds of years.

But controversy persists about the choli or blouse and undergarments. Some researchers believe that these components did not exist before the arrival of British India, and think they were introduced to satisfy the conservative Victorian idea of modesty and decency. What they say is that once women only wore the cloth, and left exposed breasts and upper body.

Although some historians have examples to refute this version, Kerala and Tamil Nadu (south) and Orissa (East) is still possible to see some examples of this practice. And classic poetic texts indicate that during the sangam period, one piece of cloth used to cover both the lower body and head, so the stomach and breasts were in the air.

Styles sari. The most common way to wear a sari is wrapped around the waist, and then take the loose end of the fabric up to slide it over his shoulder, but the air leaving the stomach. Although the sari can be dressed in different ways, some of which require a particular form or fabric length. Thus, experts categorize the style Bengali, Gujarati, Marathi, the Dravida, the madisara, the Kodagu, the Gond tribal or styles. But the most popular of them all is the style "nivi" from the region of Andhra Pradesh in southeastern India.

The fabric nivi begins with one end of the sari tucked in their belts. The fabric is wrapped once in the lower body, and then attached in folds in front of the navel. The upper end of the folds also be inserted through the part of the waist belt. This creates a very decorative, that Indian poets in the past compared with the petals of a flower. The tutorial provided at the end of the article follows this style.

After further rotation around the waist, the loose end is passed over her shoulder. This end is called the pallu or pallav. We must pass diagonally across the torso. It has crossed from the right hip to left shoulder, so that the stomach is partially visible. The navel can be hidden or view depending on the preference of the wearer. The long end of the pallu coming to the back is often highly decorated. The pallu hanging freely or can be be used to cover the head, or just the neck, passing it the right shoulder.

This style was popularized by the paintings of Raja Ravi Varma, which modified the southern style. In one of his paintings, the Indian subcontinent was depicted as a woman wearing a sari-style ethereal nivi.

The sari as a garment. In the past, saris were of silk or cotton. The rich could afford finely-woven embroidery, diaphanous silk saris that, according to folklore, could pass through an annular ring. The poor wore cotton saris, fabrics page. They were all handmade, and represented a considerable outlay of time and money.

The simplest of saris village are often decorated with lines sewn into the fabric. The cheap saris were also treated with block printing using wood, dried plants or ironed. The most expensive ornaments or brocade are geometric, floral and figurative as part of the fabric. Sometimes the strings are pressed and then tissues. Sometimes, the yarns of different colors were woven into an ornamented edge, a developed pallu and often small repeated accents in the fabric. For elite saris, these patterns could be sewn with threads of gold or silver, style "zari".

Sometimes the saris were further decorated with various types of embroidery, either colored silk (resham), or threads of silver, gold or gems (zardozi). The cheap versions of the wires used Zardozi synthetic and imitation stones, such as fake pearls and Swarovski crystals.

In modern times, saris are woven in machine mechanics and are made of artificial fibers such as polyester or nylon, which does not require ironing. Machine printed or stitched with simple patterns made with floats in the back of the sari. This can create an elaborate appearance on the front, but ugly in the rear.

Naturally, the saris made ​​and decorated by hand are much more expensive than the machine imitations. Although they are losing market share rapidly, hand saris are still popular for weddings and social occasions.

How to wear a sari. Here, I provide the details to wear a saree step by step, following the style nivi. Naturally, the fundamental condition is to have one (although I know cases of hard-liners who mounted it with a curtain), and is also very useful to run the steps in front of a mirror. I hope you serve. Voilà.

1. Wear a skirt false. Hold firmly the top of the fabric (the inside) around your waist.

2. Wrap the sari waist and firmly puts the top of the fabric (again, on the inside) by the false waist skirt.

3. Adjust the fabric around your waist while keeping the same height, and on reaching the front, the corresponding subject of the sari at the waist of the skirt false.

4. Starting from the right, fold the left as necessary the excess fabric past the navel.

5. Ask how many folds you think necessary, but usually their number between seven and twelve.

6. Grab all at once and folds in the same way, and adjusts the height above the ground so that this match the rest of the fabric.

7. Put the top of the pleats in the skirt to hold them false, and goes back again for the remaining fabric.

8. Making available the rest of the fabric with your right hand and pass it to the left.

9. Hold the cloth well with your left hand and makes the necessary adjustments in the pallu with the right.

10. Lower your left shoulder pallu of her sari to pass naturally to the back. You can use a safety pin to prevent movement. And enjoy.

Then you can a video in English with a practical demonstration of the steps described above. I hope this information has been helpful.

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Football reigns in Calcutta bites of lobster and shad

New Delhi, February 26, 2007. - The city of Calcutta has one of the oldest rivalries in Asia and rough, pitting supporters of Mohun Bagan football club, known as "lobster", with East Bengal (" shad "), with a smaller budget but passion so intense as in Europe and Americ a.
While in India cricket is the most popular sport and hockey is considered the national sport, football holds his scepter in the coastal areas of Kerala and Goa (west) and the region of Bengal (East), whose capital, Calcutta, are remeasured morning the two clubs.
"Cricket is the sport in India. But football is enthusiastic young people, especially those from the lower classes, that after every match is thrown into the streets to celebrate the triumphs of his team, "said Efe Gayatri Bhattacharyya sociology professor at the University of Calcutta.
In New Delhi, the organization Youth Football Association of India (IYSA, acronym in English), carries out projects to promote the sport among the smallest of the nation's capital, with attention also to those with fewer resources, through a street league.
"In our Little League play some 550 children over a period of seven months. And among them, there are about 60 to those who provide transport and equipment. We play every Sunday, "he told Efe IYSA secretary, Arup Das.
However, there is a world between the laudable efforts of NGOs such as the IYSA to promote the sport and passion of football unleashes masses in Calcutta around rojigualda colors of East Bengal, and green and purple of Mohun Bagan, which will meet again on Tuesday.
With deep marks of British colonization, India Calcutta is the city that feels more football, and many still listed as a national landmark building Mohun Bagan's victory against Yorkshire Regiment, a 2-1 in 1911 that considered the end of the primacy of English in the country (football, that is).
In the city, the fervent supporters of Mohun, founded in 1889, is proud that in Bengal had a Football League before there Barcelona or Real Madrid, but have little to celebrate if we analyze the clashes with the opposing team, the East Bengal Club.
The latter squad, knowing that statistics are favorable, includes on its website a comparison with the victories and defeats in clashes with rivals Mohun Bagan, which obviously kept quiet about it.
However, the Mohun Bagan, considered the oldest club in Asia, it boasts a track record longer than the East Bengal and counting in its ranks with "Ronaldinho" Indian, Baichung Bhutia, who leads the classification of the scorers against the eternal rival.
Each time there is a derby as the morning, some 120,000 spectators crammed calcutí of Saltlake Stadium in hopes that his team scores more goals than the opponent, to fill after massive street celebrations and celebrate a great feast of fish and seafood at home.
"Both teams have their own idiosyncrasies and gastronomy. The Mohun Bagan is identified with the lobster, and East Bengal with hilsa shad, a tropical fish. When Mohun wins, the fans go to the fishmonger to buy lobster. And if you win East Bengal, shad runs, "says Bhattacharyyia.
In the city, the more cautious and have bought their ration days before the match, because in Calcutta everyone knows, when Mohun Bagan faces the East Bengal, fish prices rise.

Suicides in India do not understand caste

New Delhi, October 27, 2006. - Ruined farmers, soldiers, under pressure, tired of living or nursing school marked by competitiveness are some of the faces of suicide in India, a growing problem that no one knows quite how to deal with.
The 1021 farmers have committed suicide in central India since July 2005 are just a sample of a phenomenon that has also become the region of Tamil Nadu in the south, in the place of the planet with the highest rate of teen suicide.
Indian newspapers do not normally have modesty in addressing this issue, taboo in other cultures, and often report suicides among adolescents in the pages of events giving full details.
In Tamil Nadu, for example, the suicide rate among young people is 103 per 100,000 inhabitants, nine times the world average and more than 50 percent of young female deaths are due to this cause.
There and in the neighboring state of Kerala produce half of the 100,000 annual deaths induced car registered in India, which have risen 60 percent in a decade.
Kerala, according to statistics, is the most cultured and literate of all India.
Efe said the sociologist Nandu Ram, "in Tamil Nadu and other southern regions there is a cult leader who leads people to kill themselves, as happened after the death of MG Ramachandran", an actor and prime minister of the region died in 1984 and drew over 100 people to suicide.
Meanwhile, students are prone to self-esteem crisis due to family problems, domestic violence, failed love or mental illness, also affected the Indian education system that is strongly committed to competitiveness in the face of job placement.
"Many children are unable to meet the demands of their parents or school and that it generates complex and makes them think that there is no other way out," said the sociologist.
In the case of farmers, suicide has become a response to a field without a future, especially in Vidarbha, where the debts generated by falling cotton prices and drought are the main reasons cited by local analysts .
Most are illiterate peasants in India, hence more difficult to achieve many bank loans that go to illegal moneylenders, even if it means the payment of interests that can reach 60 percent and are charged sometimes with methods coercive.
The Indian government passed a series of measures to improve the farmers, but suicide rates have increased as support, according to the version of the unions fail.
According to the spokesman for the Vidarbha Jan Andolan Samiti agricultural (VJAS) Kishor Tivari, suicides are common trace: occur between small indebted farmers who face family illness, a daughter of marriageable age and a son unemployed, plus a fall in prices or production.
Now, the organization provides VJAS "gandhigiris", a sort of strikes that follow the principles of "Gandhian" truth, tolerance, nonviolence and unity in order to achieve a "fair price" of about 45 per quintal of cotton.
Meanwhile, the Indian Army, less given to "gandhigiris" that the peasants, has announced the hiring of psychologists against the scourge of suicides among its ranks, estimated at about 500 since 2002 and mainly concentrated in the disputed region of Kashmir .
However, the controversy surrounding the suicide is the same: determine the value of life in a country that has 1,100 million people and has barely begun to develop.
And in India, something as individual as suicide has become a mass problem and knows no caste.